Destination : The Silk Road

B E A U T I F U L L

An amazing ride from Ishtaravshan to Dushanbe. The best ever, for as far as i can remember.

The shared-taxi took only one hour to fill up. I was afraid it would never ... Driving out of Istaravshan gave me nice views of the Turkestan Mountain range. It did not take that long to end up at the Shakristan Pass. Big eagles where circling close to the 3370m top. Trough Ayni we crossed the Zerafshan River a few times, but the varzob river later on was more raging. Just after Ayni we had to stop. First nobody knew why, but a lot of cars where queueing up. We all walked to the beginjning of the queue. There was a chinees guy holding all traffic back. After a while and with a lot of signals he mentioned that there was roadword ahead and that the road would openup at 19:00 . We arrived there around 11.00. People started shouting, trying to bribe the guy, but he would not bulge. One women was car-sick and she was let through. From the other end a few cars came as well. So people shouted at him more and more. One car just tried to sped of, but the guy took a rock and wanted to throw it at the car window to stop the car. My english [only tourist] did not help, nor the last words of Chinese i remember [Ni hao].

We do the same thing and we try to trick the chinese guy. We park our car on the right side of the road, very close to the Zerafshan river. When an oncoming truck passes us, the driver puts the peddle to the meddle and off we go. A bit further on other chinese workers are putting split on the road and only one half off the road is available. Why not let people pass in groups ?? We fake that one of our passengers is sick and they let us pass.

The scenery just gets better and better. We climb our way to the Anzob pass [3370m], but the 5km-tunnel is ready, so we do not have to climb all the way. Ready means, it can be passed. There is light in the tunnel here and there, and big pools of water. Just hope we do not dissapear in one. W O W, what a mountain views ! As we descent into the Obi Garm valley we race for the fastest, together with the Varzob river. The raging river wins ;-)

Kyrgyzstan - Riding out of the tunnel at Anzob pass

Anzob pass, Tajikistan - Only one tunnel is ready for trafic. I would not call it finished, since it has large potholes and only a light here and there.

Varzob, Tajikistan - One of many beautifull views

Anji, Tajikistan - The Zerafshan river

Varzob, Tajikistan - The raging Varzob River

Yesterday wandered around Istaravshan and today tried to get some nice views of the Turkestan mountains. I drove to Istaravshan and had these as a nice backdrop for the last 50 km. Walked to a hill some 2 km out of town, but unfortunately the clouds blurred the nice view today.

Yesterday found myself lost in a maze of alleys in the old town. Kids playing football, fishing in a pool and old men sipping tea. Of course the odd mosque and bazaar.

Finished reading 'The fourth protocol', a nice book with english and russian intelligence playing eachother to prevent a small nucleair 'incident'. Looks like 'The Great Game' that went on in Tajikistan between the UK and the Soviets in the 19th century.

Istaravshan, Tajikistan - city view with Turkestan mountians in the back.

Istaravshan, Tajikistan - Mug Tepe, a Sogdian fortress stormed by Alexander the Great. Only a recently build entry gate remains, guarded by a viscuous dog.

Istaravshan, Tajikistan - We can't all have a golden statue ... The gold is being used for teeth by men and women.

Istaravshan, Tajikistan - Back alley with open sewer

Istaravshan, Tajikistan - Kids palying football and one left out

Istaravshan, Tajikistan - Selling and buying potatoes and onions is mens business on a bazaar

Istaravshan, Tajikistan - You can get a haircut, while your shaslick is being preprared.

Oh my ! This is hot hot hot , it must be 30+

Wandered around Khojand anyway. Somehow you're going to end up at a bazaar, looking at people and their colourfull dresses and their merchandise. Next to walking in on a mausoleum, medressa and/or mosque. I do not take pictures of people that often. What would you say if somebody shoved a camera close to your face ? In this town they also have some 'nice' russian memorabilia, like a Lenin statue or a hammer and sickle monument.

Miss you less, see you more - Faithless

Khojand, Tajikistan - Panchshanbe (thursday) bazaar

Khojand, Tajikistan - Detail of entrance from Panchshanbe (thursday) bazaar

Khojand, Tajikistan - Mausoleum of Sheikh Massal as-Din, with pigeons from Gert and Hermien

Khojand, Tajikistan - Hammer And Sickle monument

Passed both borders in abreeze. Luckily my passport and visa are inorder. The tajik border guard even did a full bag search. I removed my hotel registrations from my passport to just see if they would even ask for them. Not a sign ... I have about ten registrations of some kind from all the hotels i stayed in in Uzbekistan. Supposedly you need these to be used as registration, as an alternative for OVIR registration. Probably these are only checked on Tashkent airport. Will ask the french girls.

In the afternoon try and get the OVIR registration for Tajikistan. An additional stamp on your visa. Try to find the building first. Should not be that difficult, but the one close to my Hotel Leninabad points to the south, which means i have to head for the main office on Kamoli Khojandi. It is close to one of the banks, which have an ATM Jippie Several buildings around here, but none have anything i would link to OVIR. Two guards with guns on their hip point northwards, but i tell them in 'dinglish' that that one points me back here. I just keep seaching and then another policemen walks towards me. A firm 'Asallam Aleikum' and a handshake further he mentions that they have only recently moved the building to another place [a bit northwards], just around the corner. He walks with me as he mentions that he wants to practise his english. Next to a 'kindergarten' is another offical looking building. Knocking on a few counters has one open it and i hand him my passport, copy and a few photo's. Yes, i am a tourist and would like OVIR registration. The counter closes and after fifteen minutes somebody else opens his counter and mentions that as of april 2009 OVIR-registration is no longer necessary if you do not stay longer than one month. Ok, i should have known that before. Will drop a note on LP's ThornTree, so other travellers will be aware as well. Since the rule is quite new the klerk gives me a certicate [stamp and all] stating in russian that i do not need OVIR-registration [i think, but i will keep it with my passport].

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