[B] From Alichur to Keng Shiber is just a short distance. We head off from the tarmac just after Chatyr Tash, into the wild again. Marmots run to their burrow once they hear us arrive. They stick their head in the air close to the burrow, just to see if it really means trouble and they dive in. We planned on staying here for two nights, but there are no yurts around. The jailoo is only used in summer and summer is late this year. We arrive early and decide to go climb Bel Airyk pass today instead of tomorrow. It is only eight km from here, but it brings us from an altitude of 4.1km to 4.8km. We picked up Bakir to guide me across the pass for a view on Zor Kul lake.
Once we get started we see herds of yaks and hear marmots warn their friends that there are two strangers coming. This route takes us across an Marco Polo sheep migration route and we could also see ibex. Every now and then we stop and gaze up the mountian to see if we see something move. Nothing ... Close to the top we walk into a snow-'blizzard' with an ice-cold wind that streams our faces. Hmm, not really dressed for this. Just normal hiking shoes and normal clothes. Walking in ankle deep snow was not my idea of hiking up here. Quitting ? Hmm, thats not in my Tajik-dictionary, stubborn as i am. The last 300 meters up wear me out and close to top i stop every 20 meters to take a breath. Luckily it stopped snowing, my shoes are already full of snow. At the top the reward is a cloudy view of Hindu Kush and Zor Kul lake. Have to get back here tomorrow when the sun is out 
. It took only six hours, three and a half to get up and two and a half to go down.
Have not seen any live Marco Polo sheep, nor ibex. I found one on my plate in the evening. It was shot yesterday by the house-owner. Tastes delicious after a hard days work. I am ready for bed, but they arranged a batman-DVD that we watch. It is in english with japanese sub-titles. The black-and-white TV is running on our cars batterie ...
